Trump won the election, maybe the insanity will stop.
The Caye Caulker Chronicles
I used to be a big deal in the restaurant and consulting business – so much so that I retired by age 40. I gotta say I was one genuine Whiz Bang success story. Then came the rock climbing accident - the doctors didn’t expect me to live, or if by some miracle I survived, I’d be a vegetable with irreparable brain damage until another stroke did me in. This is a story about perseverance, and overcoming insurmountable odds to open a café in Caye Caulker.
Wednesday
Monday
It's been awhile since my last post, I got really busy in December and January - smoking hams, ribs, pork shoulders, and turkeys.... even had a pork leg quarter!
I’m sorry to report
that one of our great friends has passed away, Carl, of cancer. He had been
best friends to Julie for many years, and was the first person I met in
Guatemala. He’ll be sorely missed by his wife and family as well as the many
friends he had accumulated. I know I will.
Maria-Elena,
his widow, will be having a convivial in his memory for about 70 of his friends
in March. I’ll supply the food.
In February we went
down to Caye Caulker to renew my visa, and couldn’t believe the changes that had
taken place since August. Julie and I were amazed at the amount of construction
going on. New construction, remodeling, and several places had moved into new
quarters since we were here last.
Julie’s sister, who
owns Island Magic Resort, wants me to prepare a tasting menu sometime in March.
She’s thinking about starting a restaurant for her guests, but doesn’t know
quite how to go about it, so Julie and I will offer her some suggestions. It is
a good idea that will enhance the hotel tremendously.
Saturday
Don’t GET ME WRONG, I
love the restaurant business. Never having a Friday or Saturday night off,
always working when the rest of the world is just getting off work, being
busiest during the holidays has never bothered me for some reason. I just loved
to cook for other people. I want readers to get a feel for the joys of making really good food at the professional
level.
To understand what it
feels like to attain the dream of running your own kitchen — what it feels like
amidst the clatter and chaos of a restaurant kitchen. I want to convey, as best
I can, the strange delights of the language, sense of camaraderie and sense of
humor found on the line. I'd like anyone who reads this to get a sense at least, that in spite of everything else, it can be fun.
I want you to see
someone who loves food, not just the life of the cook. Someone to show you how
to cook for yourselves, for the pure pleasure of eating, not just for the hordes
of tourists who flock to Belize every winter.
Tuesday
Here’s recipes for my
Thanksgiving Dinner, some of them anyway. Keep in mind that here in Guatemala,
packaged and pre-mixed ingredients are extremely difficult to find. They’re
either made to suit local tastes or are in short supply and sold out very
quickly.
Pie shells and puff
pastry sheets are two of the things that are never available, so they have to
be made from scratch. Last year they had pumpkin puree at all the supermarkets,
until the end of October – then you couldn’t find it anywhere. This year Julie
brought some back from Washington, where she was working on an article for the
Washington Post.
Wouldn’t you know it, there was an overabundance of it this
year!
After the turkeys are
thawed out, it’s time to start cooking. I begin by preparing the turkey. They
are washed and patted dry, I reserve the giblets and necks for later. Once I’ve
run my hands under the skin to loosen it up they are placed in a fifty gallon
pot, neck down and covered with the brine. They’ll brine for 24 to 30 hours
because I’m going to smoke them and it keeps them from drying out.
Once the turkeys are
brined and stored in the refrigerator, I begin baking the cornbread for the
dressing, roasting the garlic, and making the gingersnaps for the mini-cheese
cakes (they don’t sell gingersnap cookies here). I’ll make the dough for the
pie crusts later this afternoon and let the dough get cold before baking.
Mini-Pumpkin
Cake
Prepared Gingersnap cookie roll –
about 3 to 4 inches diameter.
8 oz Cream Cheese
½ cup Dark Brown Sugar
¼ cup Light Brown Sugar
1 cup canned Pumpkin Puree, NOT pie mix
2 Tbsp Sour Cream
¼ tsp Salt
2 Eggs
1 tsp Vanilla Extract
¾ tsp ground Cinnamon
¼ tsp freshly grated Nutmeg
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Beat cream cheese and sugars with
electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy. Combine with pumpkin, sour
cream, and salt – scraping bowl frequently until well mixed. Add the remaining
ingredients and continue beating until well mixed.
3. Pour into a prepared 12 cup
muffin pan and bake for 20-25 minutes or until set. Let cool for at least 30
minutes before refrigerating overnight.
4. To serve: Puddle chocolate or
caramel sauce in bottom of dessert plates. Then place a ¼” slice of the
gingersnap roll covered by pumpkin pie. Top with fresh whipped cream and
pecans.
Turkey
Brine
1 gallon water
3 cups Apple Cider
3 cups Kosher Salt
3 cups Sugar
Mix until salt and sugar is
dissolved and pour over turkeys. Then add enough water to completely cover the
turkeys.
Turkey
Marinade
2 whole head of roasted Garlic
2 whole head of raw garlic
4 cups Vegetable oil
2 cup fresh Orange Juice
1/2 cup
Cider Vinegar
1/2 cup Sea
Salt
6 Tbsp Lime Juice
6 Tbsp dried oregano
6 Chipotles in Adobo Sauce
4 Tbsp Annatto Paste
2 Tbsp ground Cumin
2 tsp ground Allspice
Zest of 2 Oranges
1. In a blender combine all ingredients
until smooth. Do it in batches if blender won’t hold the whole recipe.
2. Slather over entire turkey and
under the skin. Let marinade for at least 24 hours.
Smoked
Turkey
4 Oranges, quartered
6 Tangerines, quartered
4 Lemons, halved
1. Allow turkeys to come to room
temperature before putting in smoker. Divide the citrus equally between the two
birds and stuff the cavities.
2. Start the smoker and let it
reach 240°F before adding the wood. Once its smoking real good, it’s ready to
go. Place the turkeys in the smoke chamber and let them smoke for 3 or 4 hours
before covering with foil.
3. Continue smoking until the
internal temperature reaches 145°F, then it can be moved from the smoker to the
oven and finished cooking at 325°F.
Mini-Pumpkin
Cake
Prepared Gingersnap cookie roll –
about 3 to 4 inches diameter.
8 oz Cream Cheese
½ cup Dark Brown Sugar
¼ cup Light Brown Sugar
1 cup canned Pumpkin Puree, NOT pie mix
2 Tbsp Sour Cream
¼ tsp Salt
2 Eggs
1 tsp Vanilla Extract
¾ tsp ground Cinnamon
¼ tsp freshly grated Nutmeg
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Beat cream cheese and sugars with
electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy. Combine with pumpkin, sour
cream, and salt – scraping bowl frequently until well mixed. Add the remaining
ingredients and continue beating until well mixed.
3. Pour into a prepared 12 cup
muffin pan and bake for 20-25 minutes or until set. Let cool for at least 30
minutes before refrigerating overnight.
4. To serve: Puddle chocolate or
caramel sauce in bottom of dessert plates. Then place a ¼” slice of the
gingersnap roll covered by pumpkin pie. Top with fresh whipped cream and
pecans.
Turkey
Brine
1 gallon water
3 cups Apple Cider
3 cups Kosher Salt
3 cups Sugar
Mix until salt and sugar is
dissolved and pour over turkeys. Then add enough water to completely cover the
turkeys.
Turkey
Marinade
2 whole head of roasted Garlic
2 whole head of raw garlic
4 cups Vegetable oil
2 cup fresh Orange Juice
1/2 cup
Cider Vinegar
1/2 cup Sea
Salt
6 Tbsp Lime Juice
6 Tbsp dried oregano
6 Chipotles in Adobo Sauce
4 Tbsp Annatto Paste
2 Tbsp ground Cumin
2 tsp ground Allspice
Zest of 2 Oranges
1. In a blender combine all ingredients
until smooth. Do it in batches if blender won’t hold the whole recipe.
2. Slather over entire turkey and
under the skin. Let marinade for at least 24 hours.
Smoked
Turkey
4 Oranges, quartered
6 Tangerines, quartered
4 Lemons, halved
1. Allow turkeys to come to room
temperature before putting in smoker. Divide the citrus equally between the two
birds and stuff the cavities.
2. Start the smoker and let it
reach 240°F before adding the wood. Once its smoking real good, it’s ready to
go. Place the turkeys in the smoke chamber and let them smoke for 3 or 4 hours
before covering with foil.
3. Continue smoking until the
internal temperature reaches 145°F, then it can be moved from the smoker to the
oven and finished cooking at 325°F.
Friday
Whew,
it’s over at last, the final guests left at ten-thirty. All I wanted to do was
to crawl into my bed and sleep for hours… maybe eight or ten hours at least. Instead
it’s a quarter to two and I’m wide awake.
Mutt
and I made it slowly and painfully downstairs, where I enjoy a cup of coffee
and wait for the bones to settle. I only wrapped the knees and ankles loosely because
they’re still swollen from yesterday, I can’t really get them tight because it’ll
cut off the circulation to the joints. As usual this time of year I think back
and am thankful for all the good things that have happened to me. The doc’s
were wrong about the wheelchair, for which I’ll be eternally grateful. I would
rather be dead than live like that. My family is as always very much a part of
my life, even though I rarely see them. But Julie and Mutt are really the ones
that are my life. Sure I love her family like my own, but if I didn’t have Julie
and Mutt I’m not sure I would survive.
Thanksgiving
was a success by anyone’s measure. I overhead one of our guests saying to
someone that “this was better than at John-François” – he owns a French restaurant
in Antigua, and is very good. Paul
eats out a lot, except for the occasional pizza and eating at one of the
cookouts at our house, Tartines is
his choice of dinning. Just being mentioned with the likes of John-François is
a tremdous compliment.
Everyone
had a good time, and enjoyed themselves quite a bit. For Jannicke, Catirania
and the Guatemalans in attendance it was a new experience. For the ex-pats and Dale
it was a reminder of home. Other than when Chris helped out, Julie and I
prepared everything ourselves – from the bread and condiments to the pies,
cakes and turkey.
It
was worth getting up at 3 am and firing up the smoker.
Thursday
God
it’s depressing, all the stores are decked out in their Christmas finery, the
shelves are stocked with Christmas goods and have been since last month. I can’t
get used to not having Halloween and Thanksgiving. Here they wait until summer’s
over and roll right into the Christmas season.
I’ve
gotten thirty pounds of flour, extra baking powder, some baking soda and yeast
to handle my Thanksgiving and Christmas baking needs. I’ve also made up a
cooking schedule that is very helpful when cooking for large groups.
Three Weeks Ahead
·
Plan
the menu and a guest list, once it’s firm send out invitations.
·
Order
your turkey, roast, duck, ham, etc.
·
Create
a timeline for make-aheads, freezing, thawing, reheating, and cooking.
·
Making
fresh cranberry sauce? Better purchase and freeze berries before the stores run
out.
·
Clean
out your freezer.
Two Weeks To Go
·
Confirm
your guest list and send a copy of the menu
·
Finalize
your shopping list. Break it down into what can be purchased ahead, such as
canned goods, and what perishables should be picked up closer to the day. Make
your first shopping run.
·
Do
a test run on any new recipes.
One
Week To Go
·
Clean
out the fridge.
·
If
you're roasting a frozen turkey, pick it up and start thawing. Note that
thawing in the fridge will take one day for every 5 pounds of meat. A 15-pound
turkey will require three days to thaw thoroughly.
·
Review
the menu; are you on target with make-ahead dishes?
·
You
might have time to whip up some appetizers to store in the freezer.
·
Remind
everyone on the guest list.
Three
Days Before
·
Make
foods you can freeze: rolls, pie crusts, cornbread for stuffing, and casseroles.
·
Pick
up that fresh turkey you ordered. Put it in the brine as soon as possible.
·
Purchase
fresh produce and prep it now. You want as much done ahead of time as possible.
Two Days Before
·
Set
the table or decorate the buffet. Get extra tables & chairs.
·
Set
up the bar away from where you’ll be cooking.
·
Lay
out serving pieces and utensils.
·
Wash
and dry the turkey. Remove giblets and neck from turkey cavity. Prepare the marinade and apply it to the
turkey. Inject the legs, thighs and breasts – make sure to get marinade under
the skin.
·
Put
back in refrigerator.
·
Start
the soup and bake your pies.
One Day Before
·
Wash
and prep produce.
·
Make
turkey stock for gravy. (Don't use the liver in the stock. If you want it for
the gravy, cook it separately, mince it, and add to gravy at the last minute.)
·
Assemble
stuffing, put it in a separate pan, moisten with your homemade turkey stock,
refrigerate, and bake it on Thanksgiving Day.
·
Bake
pies and make cranberry sauce if you haven’t already done so.
·
Arrange
frozen dinner rolls on a sheet pan and thaw overnight in the fridge.
(Otherwise, thaw at room temperature on Thanksgiving morning.)
·
Make
sure your camera is charged and ready.
Thanksgiving
Day
This is when all your
advance work pays off and you look like a genius. Yes, there might be dishes to
be prepared on the day, but you won't be in a panic. Do remember to map out
oven and stove time for items brought by guests. Here's what you might have to
plan for:
·
Make gravy (if you haven't made it ahead).
·
Make
the dressing
·
Toss salad.
·
Warm
or bake bread and rolls.
·
Reheat frozen dishes.
·
Arrange appetizer platters.
·
Whip
cream for desserts.
·
Chill
or open wine.
Congratulations! Now give yourself a solid hour or more to relax and get yourself ready to greet your guests. And just in case things go sideways, don’t sweat it because there’s always next year!
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