Ok,
I got a lot of flak for the comments I made concerning American cooks. They aren’t all a lazy, undisciplined lot… some
of them are actually quite good. About one out of a thousand have what it takes
to become a chef, and that leaves 999 who
are a royal pain in the ass!
Line
cooking is where the real business of
preparing the food you eat takes place. It is more about consistency, about
unvarying repetition, tasks have to be performed over and over again in exactly
the same way. The last thing I want in a line cook is somebody who is going to
mess around with my recipes and
presentations. I worked hard on them, getting the right textures and
combination of flavors, while making sure my food costs are within reason. The
customer is expecting the dish to taste the same every time, they don’t want to
be surprised every time they order… or they won’t be back you can bet on it.
I
don’t need or want a Bobby Flay wanna-be having fun with Kiwis, balsamic and
ginger, who talks about a book deal or TV show, bitches about working holidays
and the fact that he’s not making any more money.
I require
blind, near-fanatical loyalty, and an automaton-like consistency under high
stress conditions. I asked Wes, a chef pal of mine, who makes his own pasta and
sauces from scratch daily and runs one of the best restaurant kitchens Florida,
his thoughts on it. He greatly prefers Dominicans or Guatemalans. The Italian
or American guy? You’re screaming at him in the rush, "Where's that polenta?!
Is that fucking polenta ready yet? Gimme that polenta!" and they are gonna
give it to you whether it’s ready or not. A Dominican or Guatemalan guy? He's
just going to turn his back and stir the polenta, and keep cooking it until it's
done, just the way you showed him.” No one can appreciate the American Dream of
hard work leading to material rewards better than a non-American. The Mexican,
Dominican, Guatemalan and Salvadorian cooks I've worked with make most culinary school educated white boys look like clumsy, sniveling little cry babies.
The Thanksgiving meal is coming along, I'll run the menu past Julie and see what she thinks about it before I post it here.
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