Mostly
Practical 2011 Holiday Gift List
Normally
I’m an unplugged kind of guy, I figure why complicate things with a lot of
buttons and dials. Since I have only the use of one arm, I’ve had to rethink
things a bit. My nonnegotiable tool kit includes basic metal tongs, a set of curved silicone spatulas, a good meat thermometer and a simple food mill or ricer for mashed-potatoes. I'll
rotate some other gadgets in or out, but I find that with utensils, as with
cooking in general, an arsenal of simple classics gets me where I want to
go.
What
is in a professional kitchen that you don’t have in yours? Many of the stock
items, things such as garlic oil, ground spices and pureed vegetables, are made
using the same model of equipment as yours. Food
processors have become a must-have for professional and home cooks alike. Cuisinart
makes the best available, whenever I plan on staying in one place permanently I’ll
be sure to get one. In the meantime I’ll get whatever brand is available – just
making sure that it has the highest wattage available and the biggest capacity.
Black & Decker and Phillips both offer great inexpensive models. Why get a
top of the line model that will last for ten years only to leave it behind
after a year or two? Besides a food processor, what do
you absolutely need? . Knives are obvious are obvious choices.
All you need, for God's sake, is a decent chef’s
knife. No con foisted on the general public is so widely believed as the one
that says you need a full set of specialized cutlery in various sizes. All
those medium-size 'utility' knives, those useless serrated things, all that
hard-to-sharpen stainless-steel garbage - not one of the damn things could cut
a bushel of tomatoes. Please believe me, all you will ever need in the knife
department is ONE good chef's knife, as large as is comfortable for your hand.
Most amateurs get excited about
buying one of the old-school professional high-carbon stainless Steel knives
from Germany or Austria, like a Wusthof, and those are fine knives, if heavy.
High carbon makes them slightly easier to sharpen, and stainless keeps them
from getting stained and corroded. But do you really need something so heavy? So
difficult to maintain?
Most of the professionals I know
have been retiring their Wusthofs and replacing them with the lightweight,
easy-to-sharpen and relatively inexpensive vanadium steel Victronix knives. They
can cut just about anything you might work with, from an onion to a sirloin
strip. You should use the tip of the knife for the smaller stuff, and the blade
nearer the heel for the larger. Practice on few onions, and you’ll be cutting
like a pro in less than an hour. Nothing
will set you apart from the herd quicker than the ability to handle a chef's
knife properly.
Okay, here’s a couple of other
knives you might find useful. I carry a flexible boning knife because I
French-cut racks of veal and pork, and trim meat – I use the trimmings for
stock. You can probably live without one if your butcher is doing all the work
for you. But a paring knife is an essential item for every cook. I find it
useful for everything from opening packages to fluting mushrooms.
A genuinely useful blade, however, is
what's called the offset serrated knife. It's basically a serrated knife set
into an ergonomic handle. This is a truly useful item that, once used, becomes
indispensable. As the handle is not flush with the blade, but raised away from
the cutting surface, you can use it not only for slicing bread, thick-skinned
tomatoes and so on — but on your full line of vegetables, spuds, meat and even
fish. But since it's serrated it doesn't really matter if it’s stainless steel;
after a couple of years of use, when the teeth start to wear down, you just buy
yourself another one.
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